Off track and damaged sections
A roller out of the channel, a door jammed at an angle, or a section creased by a bumper. Taken apart properly rather than levered back.
A door that has jumped the track is being held by whatever it is jammed against. Prying it or running the opener can drop a section, and the spring is still wound. Leave it where it is.
A car nudges the door. A roller seizes and skids until it climbs out at the bend. A track bolt works loose from the jamb and the track drifts wide. A cable comes off and one side of the door leads the other until the top roller leaves the horizontal. Only the first of those is an accident; the other three are wear that was audible for months.
Why it will not simply go back
People do get a door back into its track with a crowbar, and it does sometimes stay there. The reason we take longer is that a door comes off for a reason, and putting it back without finding the reason means it comes off again, usually worse.
The track is a light steel channel. Once a roller has climbed out under load, the lip of that channel is normally spread or curled at the point of exit. Push the roller back in and it now runs through a section of track that is a different width from the rest, so it binds there every single cycle. Within weeks it will jump again, and the second time it usually takes the hinge or the end stile with it, because the section is being twisted rather than lifted.
How we do it
The door is clamped and supported so nothing can drop, and the opener is unplugged. Depending on where it came off, the spring may need to be unwound first. Then the affected section is taken out of engagement properly — rollers out of the track rather than the track pried off the roller — and the track itself comes down.
Damaged track is straightened on the bench where we can see what we are doing, or replaced if it is creased rather than bent. Then it goes back plumb, shimmed off the jamb rather than pulled tight against it. That last detail matters: garage jambs are timber, they move, and a track bolted hard to a bowed jamb inherits the bow. Shims let the track be straight even when the jamb is not.
Finally the door is run by hand, slowly, all the way up and down, watching the rollers through the radius bend, before the opener is reconnected.
Damaged sections
If a vehicle hit the door, the question is whether the section can be replaced or whether the door is finished. Three things decide it.
Is the model still made?
Section profiles change. On a door under about ten years old there is a fair chance of getting a matching section. On an older one, often not, and a section that nearly matches looks worse than a new door.
Has the finish moved?
A new section in the middle of a sun-faded door is obvious from the street. Sometimes that is fine — it is a garage door — and sometimes it is not, and you should be told before you pay for it rather than after.
Did the end stiles take it?
The vertical stiles at each end of a section carry the hinges and the roller brackets. If those are twisted, replacing the skin does not fix the door, because the geometry is gone. That is normally the point at which a new door is the honest answer.
The bend is where doors die
Almost every off-track failure happens at the radius — the curved piece where the vertical track turns into the horizontal. It is where the door changes direction, where the roller is most loaded, and where a worn roller or a slightly wide track shows up first.
So when we are there for anything else, that is the first place we look, and it is why a tune-up is not a make-work visit. A roller that is starting to skid at the bend makes a specific noise for months before it climbs out.
A door that jumped the track jumped for a reason
Levering a roller back into a bent track puts the door back where it was and leaves the bend that put it there. It will come out again, usually on the same travel, and the second time it takes a hinge or a section with it.
So the door comes apart properly: clamped, sections separated where they have to be, the damaged length of track off the jamb and straightened or replaced, and the whole run re-set plumb before anything is put back.
What it costs
- Attend and diagnose
- $89.00, including the balance test and both safety tests.
- Door re-tracked, one side
- $150 – $240, including straightening or replacing the damaged length of track and re-setting it plumb.
- Vertical track replaced
- $120 – $180 per side, fitted and shimmed.
- Section replaced
- Quoted once we know the maker and whether the profile is still made. If it is not, we will say so rather than fitting a near miss.
- Vehicle damage
- We will write the ticket in enough detail for an insurer, with the parts and labor separated. We do not inflate it for a claim.
Example figures on a demonstration site. They are the shape of real pricing — a call-out plus parts — not a quote from anybody.