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Every car

A paint depth reading on every panel — taken before a pad touches the car, written down and handed to you when you collect it, including the panel that read thin.

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Work · new cars

A new car is not a blank surface.

It has been transported on an open truck or a rail car, parked in a compound, washed at the port, moved around a lot, and wiped down by somebody in a hurry before you saw it. Most of them arrive with marring already in the clear coat and contamination already bonded to it.

Not a blank surface

Transported, parked in a compound, washed at the port and wiped down in a hurry. Most arrive with marring already in the clear coat.

A new vehicle on display under showroom lighting

What is actually on it when it arrives

  • Rail dust and industrial fallout. Fine ferrous particles picked up in transit that have embedded in the clear coat and started to corrode in place. They come out with an iron remover, which is why a new white car can bleed purple all over the driveway on its first proper decontamination.
  • Transport protection. Wax or a peelable film applied before shipping and removed without much ceremony. Residue in shuts, badges and trim seams is normal.
  • Dealer wash marring. The near-universal one. A quick wash, a spray of something glossy, a dry towel, all under pressure and all in the open. It looks perfect on a forecourt under gray sky and looks like fine cobwebs the first Saturday morning you park it facing the sun.
  • Overspray and glue. From badge removal, from dealer graphics, from lot repairs.

Why this is a good moment, and a dangerous one

Good, because the clear coat is at its full factory thickness and has never been polished. Any correction it needs now is the lightest it will ever need, and protecting it now means the swirls of the next ten years largely never happen. Dangerous, because this is precisely when people buy a coating in a hurry — sometimes from the dealership, applied by whoever is free that afternoon — and a coating locks in the dealer’s wash marring for years.

What we do to one

  • Full contact wash, iron removal, tar, clay. Even on a car with fourteen miles on it.
  • Gauge readings on every panel, written down. On a genuinely new car this is a useful baseline: it is the highest number that car will ever read, and it is worth having on paper.
  • Inspection under a point light for the marring the forecourt hid. Frequently there is some. Occasionally there is a lot, and occasionally there is a repaired panel nobody mentioned — the gauge finds that too, and you would rather know in week one.
  • The lightest correction that clears it. Usually a single refining pass, sometimes only a hand polish. There is nothing to cut here and no reason to.
  • Panel wipe, coating, cure overnight, and a conversation about washing it.

The part that saves you the most money

The wash routine, agreed on day one, before the first bad habit forms. A car that is coated properly and washed properly from new can go years without needing another correction at all — which is the only outcome in this trade where the customer stops spending. It is also the reason the maintenance page here gives the whole method away for free.

Delivery-day advice. Ask the dealer not to wash it. It sounds eccentric and it will be ignored about half the time, but the pre-delivery wash is where most of a new car’s paint damage comes from. If the car can be collected dirty, collect it dirty.

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